5 ways to deacidify the soil in the garden

5 ways to deacidify the soil in the garden

Sour soil in the garden is a problem faced by many owners of private houses and summer cottages. Since this is a favorite breeding place for weeds exclusively, neutral and slightly acidic soils are best for cultivated plants. But you shouldn't be sad in vain. Conventional liming will deacidify the land for several years. And how to do this with folk remedies, we will talk further in our article.

The required pH level in the garden

There is a division into acidic, neutral and alkaline soils. The degree of acidity is determined by the pH icon:

  • very acidic - pH 3.8-4.0;
  • strongly acidic - pH 4.1-4.5;
  • moderately acidic - pH 4.6-5.0;
  • slightly acidic - pH 5.1-5.5;
  • neutral - pH 5.6-6.9.

It is recommended to liming the soil after lowering the pH level of 5.5.

What to do with high acidity

Soil deacidification or liming is the only way to lower the acidity of the soil to the desired level. In this case, it is important to make compositions that contain lime.

This technique will reduce the acid balance of the land plot for several years. If the soil is heavier, this will last longer, if the soil is light - less. Practice shows that in peat areas, deoxidation is carried out once every three years, on sandy ones - once every five years, and on loamy ones - once every seven years. Moreover, with an increase in the content of humus in the soil, it is possible to increase the content of lime.

Liming the land

Experts advise liming the earth in several passes.

When developing a garden or in the process of deep digging, once a couple of years, you need to add the bulk of the lime in the form of fluff, slaked lime or chalk. Then the procedure is repeated every year, but the concentration of the compounds will be much less.

When the acidity of the garden is uneven, liming of the soil can be done zonally - only for those crops that need normal acidity very much. Most often these are nightshades. If the crop rotation is observed, the entire land plot will have to be cultivated.

Liming for planting fruit trees should be done a couple of years before. If we are talking about a garden and planting cultivated plants, then from autumn.

Any composition for liming is scattered as evenly as possible over the site, and then it is dug in such a way that the substance is at a depth of 0.2 m from the surface. Moreover, the more uniform the deoxidation means, the better.

The use of slaked lime on acidic soil

Slaked lime is considered an excellent deoxidizer. Quicklime is not suitable in this situation. Before applying lime treatment, it is extremely important to extinguish it with water. In this case, the amount of lime will depend on the level of acidity of the soil in the garden. So:

  • for very acidic soil, 50-70 kg of fluff will be required per one hundred square meters of land;
  • for medium acid soil - 40-45 kg;
  • a weakly acidic area needs 20-25 kg of composition.

Dolomite flour use

Before buying this product, you need to pay attention to the degree of flour grinding. Practice shows that the smaller the fraction of the composition, the sooner the desired effect will come.

The best option would be limestone flour, the moisture content of which does not exceed 1.5%, and 2/3 of the composition of the grains vary in the size of 0.25 mm.

If we compare the effectiveness of dolomite flour and hydrated lime, then the first option, although it will start working later, is absolutely safe from an environmental point of view. Plus, in this case, there will be a simultaneous enrichment of the land plot with magnesium, calcium and other useful microelements.

Concentration of the drug per 1 sq. m. vegetable garden for highly oxidized soil is 0.5-0.6 kg, for medium acidic - 0.45-0.5 kg, and for slightly acidic - 0.35-0.4 kg. This information must be indicated on the packaging of dolomite flour by the manufacturer.

Folk remedy wood ash

Wood ash is a great way to reduce soil acidity. But in this case, there is no replenishment of the lack of calcium in the soil, which is badly needed by certain crops. This is especially true of the nightshade family.

Lack of calcium leads to the emergence of apical rot, which soon spreads, affects tomatoes and peppers. That is why experts advise using ash exclusively in combination with other formulations or preparations.

When, last year, there was already a struggle with excess acidity, and this indicator is uneven on the site, ash is perfect. It can be used for repeated deoxidation. In this case, there is 0.2 kg of ash per liter of water. This solution should be enough to process 1 sq. m of land.

When not wood, but peat ash is used, the concentration of the composition should be increased by 1.5 times.

Chalk as a deoxidizing agent in the country

Crushed chalk refers to a calcium-containing composition that allows you to remove the acidity of the soil. It is important to note that the grains should not be more than one millimeter in diameter. Otherwise, the effect of liming will have to wait a long time.

For especially acidic soils per 1 sq. m it is recommended to use about 0.3 kg of chalk, for moderately acidic - 0.2 kg, for slightly acidic - 0.1 kg.

After the chalk is evenly distributed over the site, it is dug up, so the disintegrating substance will change the composition of the soil.

The use of green manure for deoxidation

On store shelves, you can find specialized preparations that allow you to deoxidize the soil and at the same time fertilize it. Since they contain calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, boron, zinc, copper, manganese and other useful trace elements.

The main advantage of such funds is their environmental safety and fragmentation, which cannot be doubted.

It is recommended to use the preparations in late autumn or spring before digging, placing the materials at a depth of 0.2 m. The reaction of the soil will become neutral in just a couple of years. Moreover, after the distribution of green manure, it is better to water the land plot.

Does the soil always need to reduce acidity

It is not always necessary to deoxidize the soil. First of all, this is when the pH level is within the normal range. And secondly, when the cultivated plants planted on the site (for example, sorrel) prefer increased acidity. Ornamental crops include rhododendrons, hydrangeas, ferns, cinquefoil, heathers, lupines, rhubarb and even wild mint. As for most vegetables, they prefer slightly acidic and neutral soil, rich in useful trace elements.

However, all good things should be in moderation and the use of a large amount of lime fertilizers can lead to an excess of calcium in the soil. As a result, the growth of roots becomes difficult, especially when the root system of the plant is already weak. Plus, even abundant watering and rains will not wash off the calcium.

And then the desire to improve the soil will only lead to the emergence of new problems. This means that it is not worthwhile to greatly deoxidize the soil every year, you need to constantly check the pH level and only when necessary, liming.

In the process of soil deoxidation, several of the above methods and means can be used simultaneously, and they can even be grouped. It all depends on your wishes and the availability of available tools and materials. Difficulties, in principle, should not arise. The main thing is not to overdo it with the concentration of lime in the garden. Since their overabundance will adversely affect the cultivated plants that will grow there.

How to deacidify the soil in your garden

Acidic soil is a problem for many gardeners, which the owners of summer cottages and vegetable gardens face. Neutral and slightly acidic soil acidity is essential for a good harvest. But what if the soil is far from normal? How to deoxidize the soil is not a difficult task, the main thing is to know how to do it correctly.

How to determine the acidity of the soil

To understand whether it is necessary to carry out this procedure in the garden, it is required to determine its type (acidic, neutral, alkaline). This can be done by both scientific and folk methods.

  1. PH meter device. With its help, the soil pH level is determined; deoxidation is required at values ​​below 5.5.
  2. Indicator strips (litmus paper). The earth wrapped in cloth is placed in a container and filled with distilled water. Dip litmus paper there for a few seconds and compare with the attached scale. Red indicates acidic soil.
  3. Vinegar 9% Place glass on a dark surface. On the glass - a lump of earth and pour some vinegar. The absence of a reaction indicates an increased acidity of the soil, a slight hiss about a neutral soil, a large amount of foam about an alkaline one.
  4. Currant and cherry leaves. Put a small lump of earth in a cooled broth of several currant and cherry leaves. The red color indicates the acidity of the soil, and blue, violet indicates the neutral or alkaline reaction of the soil.
  5. Beet. If the beet leaves are red, the soil is highly acidic, in the presence of red veins, the soil is weakly acidic. On neutral soils, beet leaves are green.
  6. Growing weeds. The easiest way, but quite effective. With increased acidity of the soil on the site, abundantly grow: dandelions, horsetail, horse sorrel, plantain, wood lice.

How else to acidify the soil?

There are several more effective ways to increase the acidity level of the soil in the garden in the arsenal of summer residents. They can be divided into 3 categories.

Mineral compounds

If the soils are heavy and clayey, it is most appropriate to change their reaction with the help of mineral compounds. These are, first of all, colloidal sulfur and ferrous sulfate. Water penetrating into the ground shows a reaction with it, slowly turning into sulfuric acid. The process of soil oxidation after adding sulfur will not be quick (sometimes it takes up to a year), so you should definitely not expect an express result. But it is known that the finer the sulfur is ground, the faster the oxidative process will go. Attention! The calculation is as follows: in order to raise the acidity of the substrate by 2.5 pH units, you need to add 100-150 g of sulfur per square meter to the soil.

Experts advise to scatter sulfur in case of calm, because its dust is light and well carried by the wind. Of course, this must be done in personal protective equipment. Colloidal sulfur is more preferable, if only because of its low cost. It is recommended to bury sulfur powder to a depth of 30 cm (not less). Aluminum sulfate - This substance works softer, but faster than sulfur. The proportions are as follows: 0.5 kg of powder per 10 square meters. Such measures will help you to feel the results in a month, or even in 3 weeks. Usually, it is customary to increase the acidity of the soil in the pot with aluminum sulfate, but it is also used in the garden to improve the growth of hydrangeas - it really grows more lush. But it is also dangerous to exceed the content of aluminum sulfate in the soil: if there is too much of it, the percentage of phosphorus in the substrate will decrease, that is, the balance of elements important for plant growth will be disturbed.

If you need to slightly acidify the soil, you can use ammonium nitrate in the spring. And for autumn digging, ammonium sulfate or potassium sulfate is more suitable.

It is worth remembering that not all mineral compounds work to increase the acidic reaction of the soil. For example, it is customary to deoxidize the soil with calcium and sodium nitrate. And although they are technically based on ammonia, they nevertheless make the soil alkaline.

Acid solutions

For the quickest result of acidification, acid solutions are used. For example, sulfuric acid is often obtained from an old car battery. All the electrolyte is drained from it. And in order to independently prepare such a fertilizer for acidification, take only 5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and very carefully pour it into a bucket (10 l), which is pre-filled with water. This solution is thoroughly mixed, and it is ready for watering the soil. Acidity with this method increases, as a rule, by 1-2 units. Such acidification, as experts assure, can be carried out several times during the growing season: the acidity index will increase smoothly.

But there is also a more affordable alternative to sulfuric acid, which is preferred by many summer residents. It is about acidifying the soil with vinegar, citric or malic acid. They give a fairly quick acidification effect. But, however, these substances have a negative effect on microorganisms, that is, they also kill beneficial microflora (the effect is comparable to that of antibiotics). Therefore, citric acid and vinegar are used, although often, but very carefully when other options are unacceptable for some reason. How to acidify the soil with citric acid or vinegar: you need to pour 1-2 teaspoons of lemon / 100 ml of vinegar, dilute these ingredients in 10 liters of water. One bucket is for 1 square meter, this is the calculation. One thing is used - either lemon or vinegar. It is not necessary to use two acidifiers at once. It is believed that half a glass of vinegar should be diluted in 1 bucket of water, but many summer residents assure that the method is very aggressive, the result is not worth it.

It should be remembered that neither lemon nor vinegar will work for a long time. This is a one-time express method. Unlike organics, they will not give a smooth and natural accumulation effect. And the negative impact on beneficial microorganisms speaks for itself, sometimes you have to choose what is more important - to instantly acidify the soil or maintain the balance of microorganisms. The latter, after all, also help the growth of plants.


Another very effective way to raise the indicators of the acidic reaction of the soil is to plant plants on the site, the roots of which are rich in organic acids. A big plus of this method is its environmental friendliness, naturalness, mild natural impact. In addition to the fact that they will acidify the soil remarkably, smoothly, gently, they will also demonstrate their phytosanitary properties. And even these plants will also be able to replenish the supply of elements important for the growth of crops. The best siderates are mustard, lupine, oats, soybeans, rapeseed. Before using any of this list, you need to understand that each plant will affect the growth of the crops grown. For example, the most popular green manure is white mustard. Its roots secrete valuable organic acids, and when the remains of mustard decompose, substances are formed in the soil that will help remove heavy elements from it.

An excellent property of white mustard is its phytosanitary effect. Where mustard grows, the crops grown will have little pain. For example, late blight can completely leave the site. And if the garden is literally dominated by aphids, slugs and wireworms, then white mustard will cope with them. Only crucifers, radishes and cabbage, are "capricious" in the area where white mustard grows or grew. The rest of the cultures are doing great. Lupine, as well as alfalfa and sweet clover, are legumes that are also green manure plants. You can grow them every year without changing places. Melilot prefers damp areas, and lupine calmly treats even sandy dry soils. Legumes are best planted in summer or spring. Often they improve the soil in the greenhouse.

It copes with the task of normalizing acidity and phacelia. After it, any crop can be planted on the site.Siderata can be sent to the soil from early spring to the last weeks of autumn. Mow the greens about a month after germination. And bees adore phacelia, they flock to its fragrant nectar. If the farm has hives, the choice of this plant is obvious. All of these methods are suitable even for those who literally spend their first year on the site, and much is new to him.

The more attentively and reverently the gardener treats the processes of soil preparation, the more successful the first harvest will be.

For information on how to acidify the soil for hydrangeas, blueberries and cranberries, see the next video.

When to deoxidize the soil

You can deacidify the soil in spring or autumn, it all depends on the materialwhich you will be using. For example, wood ash is best used in autumn, since it is a strong alkali and it is highly undesirable to mix it with fertilizers that are used to cultivate the land in spring. As a result, lime and ash can change the soil from acidic to alkaline, as a result of which the plants will not be able to receive phosphorus and other nutrients. And even if the soil gets rid of excess acidity, you will not be able to get the harvest that you expected.

In the spring to deacidify the earth best of all with dolomite chalk or gypsum, which, when dissolved in the earth, reduce the level of its acidity. And dolomite is able to saturate the soil with phosphorus and potassium, which will certainly have a positive effect on the amount of the future harvest. In addition, these materials will not be washed off with water during the first precipitation and will be able to regulate soil acidity for a long time.

Deoxidizing material needed put in the ground when digging... If for some reason you did not do it in time, then scatter it on top of the dug-up earth and along the tree trunk circles, if we are talking about fruitful trees. This is the most suitable option, since from autumn to spring, plants have no vegetation and such an effect will not be dangerous. Over time, deoxidizers will go deep into the ground along with melt water. By the way, they can be scattered even in winter along the snow cover.

How to deacidify the soil in the garden.

If the soil is acidic in the garden, then I must add lime fertilizer. I scatter such fertilizers around the garden in the fall during plowing of the garden so that the fertilizers are at a shallow depth after plowing.

How can you deoxidize the soil:

Therefore, I adhere to the exact rate of application of lime fertilizers. If I add lime to acidic soil, then 1 sq. m. 400 grams are required. And on weakly acidic soil I add only 200 grams of lime per 1 sq. m.

I bring in wood ash for deoxidizing the soil at the rate of 1 glass per 1 sq. m. But I make dolomite flour at the rate of 500 grams per 1 sq. m. m. soil. But chalk takes a little more - about 700 grams per 1 sq. m. soil in the garden.

Along with the introduction of lime fertilizers, I also apply mineral fertilizers with a high calcium content. To do this, I sprinkle it on 1 sq. m. 30 g of calcium nitrate. This fertilizer is well absorbed by all vegetable crops in the garden and deoxidizes the soil.


Some gardeners use eggshells to deacidify the soil and feed with microelements. Perhaps this is justified, since the eggshell is 92-95% composed of calcium carbotans. It is absorbed almost completely (since the synthesis in the body of the bird from organic to inorganic calcium has already taken place).

The calcium in the shell helps reduce the acidity of the soil and helps plants absorb nitrogen. To deoxidize the soil, the harvested shell is crushed and scattered on the ground. Such fertilizer can be applied throughout the season, but autumn is considered the best time, when pre-winter digging of the soil is carried out.

To improve the pH, it is necessary to add 0.3-1 kg of crushed shells per 1 sq. m. For information: to get 1 kg of shells, you need to accumulate 100 eggshells.

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Good harvests to you! Taisiya Filippova was with you.

Watch the video: PERFECT SOIL PH: 10 Natural Ways to Achieve Ideal PH for Plants