Tylecodon cacaliodes

Tylecodon cacaliodes


Tylecodon cacalioides (Sulphur Butterbush)

Tylecodon cacalioides (Sulphur Butterbush), also listed as Tylecodon cacaliodes, is a succulent shrub, up to 3.3 feet (1 m) tall, that has…

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I do screen my pumice (keeping material from 0.1 to 0.25 inch) but I do not prewash it. The brand I get seems to be pretty clear of fines right out of the bag.

Yes, I was comparing the two species growing from seed. I lost most of my brevicaule seedlings during two episodes when I was not misting or watering for long enough that the soil became dry. These observations are consistent with what I have read in the Pachyforms book (which I recommend) and other places. Pachyforms states that brevicaule "should only be watered when temperatures are 82°F and above" which would exclude almost all the year from their growing season here, at least in ungrafted form. The grafted plants do fine with standard Pachy treatment and our much lower summer temperatures.

It is interesting to hear your observations about growing these plants. Thank you for sharing them.

I have been growing Euphorbia esculenta (and its frequently confused twin, E. inermis) for quite a few years both in containers and in the ground. I'm no kind of expert growing plants from seed, but they have been pretty easy for me that way, and they become independent of soil moisture (ie. I can allow the soil to go mostly dry) pretty early in life. Maybe it would be better to wean them off of the water sooner (as I do by default with that size seed) so as to avoid the damping off. I typically water young seedlings (up to 4 inch pot size) twice a week in my usual 50% pumice mix, and after that once a week.

E. esculenta is prolific enough here that it shoots seeds everywhere and I get to harvest a fair number of volunteers that show up in other pots. They grow a tap root when they have some space.

Maybe your seeds came already contaminated with some kind of micro-organisms. I always used seeds which I harvested fresh from my own plants.

I like to keep my esculentas in pots that are wider than the diameter of the arms when they are young. You will pretty seriously restrict their growth if you underpot them the way you have been doing. Once they reach 10 inch pot size I might let them grow wider than the pot, and 12 inch pot size is the end of the line. In all pots bigger than 4" I water once a week year round (in our very mild and predictable climate) with a continuous low level of nutrients added. The 12" pot gets water every 2 weeks because it takes longer to dry out, and landscape plants get water about every 2 weeks year round, which I'm sure is way more than they actually need at this point.

Here's a landscape plant in bloom (with an intoxicating smell) and my largest potted plant (12" pot) on the patio today, just starting to make a different color of flowers (white).

And yup Pachypodium brevicaule is the most temperamental! Lamerei is one of the least, at least always has been for me!

I'm excited I just got some new seeds in last week. Going to be starting them in a few weeks!

Name Status Confi­dence level Source Date supplied
Cotyledon cacalioides L.f. Synonym WCSP (in review) 2012-03-23

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Tylecodon paniculatus Seeds

Tylecodon is a genus of succulent plants in the Crassulaceae family. Until the late 1970s all these plants were included in the genus Cotyledon , but in 1978 Dr Helmut Tölken of the South Australian Herbarium split them off into a genus of their own. The new name: "Tylecodon" was chosen as an anagram of the earlier name Cotyledon. Tylecodons generally lose their leaves during summer. From mid-autumn to early winter the new leaves are borne in spiral arrangements at the branch tips. The Tylecodon genus is very varied, ranging from dwarf succulents such as Tylecodon reticulatus to Tylecodon paniculatus, which may exceed two metres in height.

Tylecodon paniculatus is a summer deciduous, stocky, caudiciform , tree -like succulent that occurs over a wide area. The plant appears to have wide tolerance of growing habitats, growing in weathered rock in the north to coastal sands in the south. The plants can reach heights of 2 m making them the largest of the tylecodons. The plants conserve energy by photosynthesizing through their "greenish stems" during the hot dry summer months. The yellowish green, papery bark is a very attractive feature of this plant. During the winter, plants are covered with long, obovate, succulent leaves clustered around the apex of the growing tip. At the beginning of summer it bears spectacular reddish orange, tubular flowers, just as the leaves turn yellow and drop off. It has a surprisingly shallow root system for its size.

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The genus Tylecodon contains the following species, but this list certainly is incomplete. For one thing, it does not contain any mention of subspecies, hybrids and the like. Also, inevitably, new species are described occasionally. Tylecodon albiflorus, Tylecodon aridimontanus, Tylecodon atropurpureus, Tylecodon aurusbergensis, Tylecodon bayeri, Tylecodon buchholzianus, Tylecodon cacaliodes, Tylecodon cacaliodes x Tylecodon paniculatus, Tylecodon decipiens, Tylecodon ellaphieae, Tylecodon faucium, Tylecodon fragilis, Tylecodon grandiflorus, Tylecodon hallii, Tylecodon hirtifolius, Tylecodon kritzingeri, Tylecodon leucothrix, Tylecodon occultans, Tylecodon paniculatus, Tylecodon pearsonii, Tylecodon pusillus, Tylecodon pygmaeus, Tylecodon racemosus, Tylecodon reticulatus, Tylecodon rubrovenosus, Tylecodon schaeferianus, Tylecodon similis, Tylecodon singularis, Tylecodon stenocaulis, Tylecodon striatus, Tylecodon suffultus, Tylecodon sulphurous, Tylecodon tenuis, Tylecodon tomosus, Tylecodon tuberosus, Tylecodon ventricosus, Tylecodon viridiflorus and Tylecodon wallichii.

Comments (21)


Don't know about those species, but I just treat mine (cacalioides) like any other succulent and its doing perfectly fine. I just made the soil a bit more rocky just to be safe. He's in full sun and has little red tips. Watered once a week.don't know about cold hardiness though. maybe ssomebody else will chime in on that.


Any on your list you will defiantly want them inside during winter They don't agree with temps below the forties for very long Fifty will keep em safe
Your more than welcome to join the THE WINTER GROWING SUCCULENT CLUB where most everything is kind of reverse

Soil ( as you already know): Gritty sharp fast draining mix sifted courser sand pumice clays turface Optional I often add a small amount some super sized perlite to keep it the rocky harder substrate mix on a softer side at .50 per pot. For me it seems things get to move easier with perlite soft over pinch forming them with more pumice and other hard substrates

None of these plants are in any hurry to grow they are slow growers. Some exaggeration but it seems a snail running in molasses might win the uphill race.
You can chase the sun as long as it's not cloudy but for you even better. Your additional lighting for them orchids in your house is to humid /wet of an area but the lighting may just work for you during winter if abut the same or warmer but a lot dryer air provided

IMO Summer dormant times is the hardest part things will look dead most cant not water when we shouldn't water and yes even then they might need a teaspoon or a drop or two
When they break out of dormancy SLOWLY re intro them to a regular winter watering in lack of better words RESPECT they're dormancy as you would any of your Dorslenia If not they're done

Bikerdoc5968 Z6 SE MI

So Wes, to be sure about some things you've said. These are WINTER growers, i.e., northern hemisphere winter growers because they hail from South Africa or there about where our winter is their summer. Yes? Having said this, one would restrict watering during our northern summer season when they drop leaves and go dormant. Even with my orchids, I have a hard time with maintaining any kind of reasonable humidity and when I do, it is always at the wrong time of the year!

As for sun? Filtered light? Lots of sun?

Cactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5

No, Howard, I wouldn't suggest you involve the our-winter-is-their-summer thinking here. They're a simple genus, but they do grow in our winter (they grow in their winter, too) - that's when they grow (actually fall to spring). Now, if you were in San Diego, these are perfect plants for PIGing (because that's when the rains come, in winter). Since you don't, you have to give them heat and light at a time when that's in short supply from nature. Grow them as you would your succulents in growth (i.e. not dormant) and away you go. As much sun as you can give them is ideal. They can sit on a plant bench in the summer and be given just a sip monthly, looking spare and bare (because they're dormant and are denuded of leaves).

All that other winter/summer stuff is but mash and complicates things that needn't complication.

Watch the video: Növénybemutató 11# Tylecodon buchholzianus